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VATICAN CITY

Mass outside the Vatican

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The Vatican is the smallest sovereign state in the world, measuring only about 109 acres (44 hectares). It is ringed with centuries-old walls and entirely surrounded by the city of Rome. But it is a separate nation, formed in 1929 in a treaty with the Italian government.

This independence is the Vatican's most important secular feature because it protects the pope from outside interference.

Dominated by St. Peter's Basilica and its embracing colonnade, Vatican city covers 108.7 acres on a site known to ancient Romans as Mons Vaticanus. Popes lost political power over Rome and the surrounding papal states with the unification of Italy (1861-70) but remained in residence as self-styled "prisoners of the Vatican." Mussolini's government recognized Vatican City as an independent state in the 1929 Lateran Treaty.

Within the walls, there is some open space, but for Swiss Guards out for a jog, the size of the Vatican gives a whole new meaning to the idea of running "cross country."

Besides a tiny population of about 900, the Vatican has everything a normal nation might have: a police force, a newspaper, a postal service, even a soup kitchen for the poor.

There are a few atypical features in this city-here, traffic jams can sometimes stretch up to ten cars long, and the Vatican is, perhaps, the only country in the world where the cash machines provide instructions in Latin.

Not many religions actually own a country, but Catholicism isn't just any religion, and the Holy See - or Vatican City - isn't any ordinary country. Headed up by His Holiness, the tiny enclave in the heart of Rome is the administrative and spiritual capital of Roman Catholicism, and the world's smallest independent state. During the working week, the population increases fivefold as residents of Rome cross the 'border' to do the Lord's work.

St Peter's Square Bernini's piazza is considered a masterpiece. Laid out in the 17th century as a place for the Christians of the world to gather, the immense piazza is bounded by two semicircular colonnades, each of which is made up of four rows of Doric columns. In the center of the piazza is an obelisk brought to Rome by Caligula from Heliopolis in ancient Egypt. If you stand on the dark paving stones between the obelisk and either of two fountains, the columns line up in perfect rows so that the massive columns behind can't be seen.

Be prepared to fight your way onto the disks - not many people know they are there, but those who do will likely be standing on them waving fundamentalist placards and umbrellas. The oval-shaped piazza is located on the eastern boundary of the Holy See. The square is also home to the Vatican's post office.

St Peter's Basilica The Basilica di San Pietro is built on the site of a Roman stadium as well as the original Basilica, dating from the 4th century. The list of relics and great artistic and architectural feats contained in St Peter's is almost endless, and includes Bernini's baroque baldacchino (canopy), which is made of bronze from the Pantheon; the cloth of St Veronica; a piece of the True Cross; Michelangelo's superb Pieta and breathtaking dome; and di Cambrio's famous and much-kissed statue of St Peter himself.

Vatican Museums On the northern border of the Holy See is the entrance to the stunning Vatican Museums. Comprised of several museums and galleries, the museum complex is home to Syrian, ancient Greek, ancient Roman and Egyptian relics (including those stalwarts of student art tomes, the Apollo Belvedere and Laocoon); ancient and Renaissance sculptures; marble busts; Renaissance paintings; tapestries; maps; apartments painted by Raphael; the Borgia Apartments; and more. It's a truly awesome collection that is even more impressive when you consider that a vast amount of the Vatican's art treasures are kept away from the public gaze.

Sistine Chapel The Sistine Chapel is usually on the Vatican Museums' tour itinerary, and a must see for all art lovers. Situated on the northern side of the Basilica, and completed in 1484, it is the Pope's private chapel. It's best known for the astonishing Creation, Michelangelo's fresco, painted over four years on the barrel-vaulted ceiling. Both Creation and Last Judgment, also by Michelangelo, were damaged over the centuries by candle smoke, with Last Judgment also painted over by order of Pope Pius IV who was offended by the nudity of the cavorting figures. Both were recently restored to their surprisingly bright (and hopefully original) colorful glory. If you can drag your eyes away from the roof, the walls of the chapel display the work of masters such as Botticelli, Pinturiccio and Luca Signorelli. Popes Sixtus V and Pius V have their final resting places here as well.

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