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St. Lucia is the sort of island that
travelers to the Caribbean dream
about--a small, lush tropical gem that is still relatively unknown. One of
the Windward Islands of the Lesser Antilles, it is located midway down the
Eastern Caribbean chain, between Martinique and St. Vincent, and north of
Barbados. St. Lucia is only 27 miles long and 14 miles wide, with a shape
that is said to resemble either a mango or an avocado (depending on your
taste). The Atlantic Ocean kisses its eastern shore, while the beaches of
the west coast owe their beauty to the calm Caribbean Sea.
In natural beauty, St. Lucia seems like an island plucked from the South
Pacific and set down in the Caribbean. Its dramatic twin coastal peaks, the
Pitons, soar 2,000 feet up from the sea, sheltering magnificent rain forests
where wild orchids, giant ferns, and birds of paradise flourish.
Brilliantly-plumed tropical birds abound, including endangered species like
the indigenous St. Lucia parrot. The rainforest is broken only by verdant
fields and orchards of banana, coconut, mango, and papaya trees.
St. Lucia has been inhabited since long before colonial times, and its
cultural treasures are a fascinating melenge of its rich past and its many
different traditions. The island's people have earned a well-deserved
reputation for their warmth and charm, and the island itself is dotted with
aged fortresses, small villages, and open-air markets.
There is a broad array of exciting and exotic activities available on St.
Lucia. The island's steep coastlines and lovely reefs offer excellent
snorkeling and scuba diving. The rainforest preserves of St. Lucia's
mountainous interior are one of the Caribbean's finest locales for hiking
and bird watching. Of course, the island also possesses excellent facilities
for golf, tennis, sailing, and a host of other leisure pursuits. Not to be
missed is St. Lucia's Soufriere volcano, the world's only drive-in volcanic
crater.
History of St. Lucia
St. Lucia was first settled by Arawak Indians around 200 A.D., though by 800
their culture had been superseded by that of the Caribs. These early
Amerindian cultures called the island "Iouanalao" and "Hewanorra," meaning
"Island of the Iguanas."
The history of the island's European discovery is a bit hazy. It was long
believed that Columbus had discovered St. Lucia in 1502, but recent evidence
suggests that he merely sailed close by. An alternative discoverer is Juan
de la Cosa, a lesser-known explorer who had served at one time as Columbus'
navigator. There are some indications that de la Cosa may have discovered
the island in 1499, although there is also evidence suggesting that he
didn't find the island until 1504. In any case, there was no European
presence established on the island until its settlement in the 1550s by the
notorious buccaneer Francois le Clerc, a.k.a. Jambe de Bois, or Wooden Leg.
Peg-Leg le Clerc set up a fine little base on Pigeon Island, from whence he
issued forth to prey upon unwitting and treasure-laden Spanish galleons.
Around 1600, the Dutch arrived, establishing a fortified base at Vieux Fort.
The first attempt at colonization occurred just a few years later, in 1605.
An unfortunate party of English colonists, headed to Guyana on the good ship
Olive Branch, landed on St. Lucia after having been blown off course. In
all, sixty-seven colonists waded ashore, where they purchased land and huts
from the resident Caribs. After a month, the party had been reduced to only
nineteen, and those were soon forced to flee from the Caribs in a canoe. A
few decades later, in 1639, a second party of English colonists under Sir
Thomas Warner also failed in their settlement attempt.
By mid-century the French had arrived, and had even "purchased" the island
for the French West India Company. Needless to say, the persevering British
were less than enchanted with this idea, and Anglo-French rivalry for the
island continued for more than a century and a half. The island's first
settlements and towns were all French, beginning with Soufriere in 1746. By
1780, twelve settlements and a large number of sugar plantations had been
established. Two years earlier, the British launched their first invasion
effort at the "Battle of Cul de Sac." By 1814, after a prolonged series of
enormously destructive battles, the island was finally theirs.
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Over the next century St. Lucia settled into the stable democracy and
multicultural society that it is today. The country remained under the
British crown until it became independent within the British Commonwealth in
1979. Despite the length of British rule, the island's French cultural
legacy is still evident in its Creole dialect.
The Culture & People of St. Lucia
St. Lucia's culture has evolved from the intermingling of the many different
groups of people who have participated in its history. Each has brought
different beliefs and traditions, all of which are reflected in the life of
the island today. A visitor is likely to drive on the British side of the
road to an Indian restaurant in a French town, greeted all along the way in
Creole patois.
One of the most accessible expressions of St. Lucia's rich cultural heritage
is its cuisine. The fertile, volcanic soil of the island yields an enormous
supply of produce, and the island is one of the leading banana exporters in
the Caribbean, with six different varieties available. In addition to
bananas, St. Lucia's abundant tropical fruits include mangoes, papayas,
pineapples, soursops, passion fruit, guavas, and coconuts. Local chefs
combine the island's fresh produce with a wide variety of equally fresh
seafood to create tantalizing curries, Creole-style entrees, and
pepper pot
stews. Callaloo soup, made from a leafy green similar to spinach, is the
national dish. The island's outstanding cuisine has recently gained
international recognition by garnering several gold medals in the regions
most prestigious culinary competitions.
But St. Lucia's culture extends far beyond the table, as the island has long
held a reputation for its intellectual and artistic talents. St. Lucia has
produced two Nobel Prizewinners: the late Sir W. Arthur Lewis, who won the
Nobel Prize for Economics in 1979, and poet Derek Walcott, who won the 1992
Nobel Prize for Literature.
To understand as well as enjoy St. Lucia's culture is largely a matter of
gaining some sense of the various peoples who have contributed to it. The
first of these were the Arawaks and the Caribs, Amerindian peoples
indigenous to the entire Caribbean. They were expert hunters, farmers,
fishermen, and skilled artists. Their primary crops were cassava, yams,
sweet potatoes, all of which still play a central role in the island's food.
The Amerindians were decimated by the arrival of the Europeans, and only a
small number of St. Lucians can still trace their roots back to this group.
Some of the few particular aspects of Amerindian culture that survive
include farina and cassava bread, fish-pots and other local craft items.
Some villages still practice the ancient art of fishing in dug-out canoes.
The next group to arrive on the shores of the island were the Europeans,
primarily the British and the French. Though the Europeans didn't settle St.
Lucia in large numbers, they had an incalculable impact on the island's
history and culture. The British and French influences seem to weigh
equally, despite the fact that the French lost the island in 1814. To St.
Lucia's complex cultural mosaic, the British contributed their language,
educational system, and legal and political structure. French culture is
more evident in the arts--music, dance, and Creole patois, which stands
alongside the official language of English.
At the same time that the Europeans were bringing their own cultures to St.
Lucia, African culture was becoming established through the arrival of
slaves for European plantations and, later, indentured laborers. Their
descendants constitute the largest percentage of the island's population,
and their proud heritage has had an enormous impact on St. Lucia's character
as a nation. African traditions have survived the repressions of slavery and
servitude to become the strongest element in St. Lucian culture today.
After the abolition of slavery, East Indians came to St. Lucia as indentured
servants. Most worked in the large sugar factories in the Cul-de-Sac,
Roseau, and Mabouya valleys and in Vieux Fort, where there is still a
significant East Indian community. In comparison to other immigrant groups,
their numbers were small. Although their traditional culture has almost
disappeared, the East Indians have had a notable and lasting influence on
the island's fine cuisine |