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BERMUDA

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According to geologists, Bermuda is nearly 100 million years old. It's a fishhook-shaped coral archipelago that crowns an extinct submarine volcano. Around 180 named islands surface from this land mass, which descends 15,000 feet; beyond it, the ocean floor is found a remarkable three miles below.

The inner lagoon and the islands' surrounding waters remain relatively tranquil - one of the reasons hundreds of ancient ships were lured to their demise along the coral reefs that protect Bermuda. You can easily wade out to many of these reefs from Bermuda's pink-sand shores, which acquire their lovely hue from the eroded skeletons of the red foraminifer, a tiny protozoan that populates Bermuda's waters.

Although the islands are believed to have been discovered in 1503 by the Spanish mariner Juan Bermudez and named for him, they were quickly given the moniker "Isles of Devils". This was due not only to the number of shipwrecks that occurred here, but also to the calls of hundreds of thousands of island birds, which when carried across the seas spooked 16th-century seafarers into thinking they were the cries of devils. Not surprisingly, the islands remained uninhabited for more than a century after their discovery.

It was not until 1609 that Bermuda would witness its first permanent settlers, purely by accident. On July 28 of that year, the English vessel the Sea Venture was shipwrecked within striking distance of Bermuda's shores during a hurricane. The ship's captain, Admiral Sir George Somers, claimed the islands for England and the passengers and crew, who had been en route to the English colony of Jamestown in Virginia, settled here long enough to build two new ships that would transport them to their final destination. Dubbing the islands Somers Islands, they established themselves in present-day St. George's Parish until the new vessels, the Deliverance and the Patience were ready to set sail in the summer of 1610. Just two men were left behind in Bermuda, but two years later, in 1612, the English Crown formed the Bermuda Company with the intent of formally settling the islands. The Town of St. George's served as Bermuda's political hub, commercial center and first capital, but by the end of the century, small communities had been established around Flatts, Crow Lane, Riddell's Bay and Mangrove Bay.

During these early years the islands' economy revolved around whaling, piracy and the tobacco, cedar and salt trades. Onion farming also got its start in Bermuda around this time. And, of course, the illicit industries of smuggling and privateering also prospered, given Bermuda's strategic location between the New World and the Old World and the fact that shipwrecks offshore were still fairly common.

With the outbreak of the U.S. Civil War, however, Bermuda once again became
closely linked with its neighbor to the west. Bermudian merchants, who had family and commercial ties to their counterparts in Virginia and other Southern states, made a fortune running Union blockades for the Confederacy even though Bermuda had abolished slavery in 1834.

The year 1874 saw the first real push to develop tourism in Bermuda, when steamship service was established between New York and Bermuda. In 1883, Queen Victoria's daughter, Princess Louise, visited the islands and was so impressed she urged her friends to vacation here as well. Islanders were apparently equally impressed with her, as the owners of the Pembroke Hotel renamed it The Princess in her honor. American tourists soon began to flock to Bermuda, too in response to Prohibition.

Bermuda is a self-governing British overseas territory led by a governor who represents the Crown and a premier elected by the majority party, with an appointed Senate and an elected House of Assembly. Visitors fall in love with Bermuda virtually at first sight - the quaint, colorful homes, the lush island greenery, the profusion of glorious hibiscus and morning glories climbing trellises, and the clear, tranquil waters that range from turquoise to azure. Then there are the pink-sand beaches and the ideal climate, with temperatures ranging from the 70s in the summer to the 50s in the winter.

Of course, these things are all enhanced by the friendly Bermudians themselves. In fact, you may notice the sound of car horns as you travel across the islands - this is not an indication of hostility or some sort of problem, but rather as a greeting between islanders. You may also notice the cleanliness of Bermuda's streets, homes and businesses - the residents here take great pride in their homeland.

Although not as prevalent on all of Bermuda's shores, the lovely pink cast of the islands' beaches is attributed to the tiny foraminifer, a protozoan creature that makes its home in the area's waters, on the underside of rocks. When the red foraminifer dies, its bright skeleton is eroded by the waves and mixes with other beach debris such as white clam and snail shells and coral, lending the beaches their infamous pink hue.

Each of Bermuda's nine parishes is home to a number of lovely sandy strands. You can reach them by cycle, taxi, or, sometimes, by ferry. Bermuda's efficient bus system is another good means of transportation for a day at the beach. Bus routes and schedules are available at the central terminal on Washington Street in Hamilton or at the Visitors' Bureau on Front Street.

Changing facilities are not available at all beaches, so you may want to don sports clothes over your swimsuit depending on where you're headed. Another good reason for the added layer of clothing is the fact that swimwear is not permitted on Bermuda's streets. If you're planning other activities after your stay at the beach, please keep this in mind. Beaches without snack bars or cafés are occasionally visited by a lunch wagon; or you may want to pack your own beverages and refreshments to take with you.

Bermuda's public beaches

Please note that nearly 80 percent of Bermuda's beaches are privately owned; if you happen upon another beach as you make your way to one of the public ones mentioned here, it is likely private and off-limits to the general public. Do not dismay, however, that you have a limited selection of sandy shores to visit you'll see from the list below that there are ample idyllic spots for you to choose from. For a map of the island and beaches, click here.

Sandy's Parish
A favorite with locals, Mangrove Bay offers a calm setting, with mangroves, bobbing boats, a curving shoreline and tranquil waters. It is an ideal beach for families and for simply wading in the gentle surf.

Somerset Long Bay Beach is located within Somerset Long Bay Park on Somerset Island. Inside the park is a manicured grassy area popular for family picnics and cricket games; public facilities are available here. Beyond this area is the beach, a long stretch of coarse white sand lapped with calm and very shallow waters. While not as picturesque as some of Bermuda's other beaches, Somerset Long Bay is a good locale for children and non-swimmers; it also boasts exposure to pleasant midday and late-afternoon sun.

Black Bay and Parson's Bay are two additional public beaches in Sandy's Parish, though neither is indicated with signage. Black Bay is within Lagoon Park just across Grey's Bridge on the way to the Dockyard. Three little beaches make an appearance here at low tide. Parson's Bay is located in Lagoon Park, along Lagoon Road just before the road name changes to Craddock Road. Another good beach for families, Parson's Bay is sheltered and offers tranquil waters.

Southampton Parish
In Southampton Parish you'll find two of Bermuda's premier beaches, West Whale Bay and Church Bay. Both offer seclusion, lovely pink sands and the ruins of forts that once majestically guarded the coastline. Church Bay is particularly renowned for its excellent snorkeling you can swim out to reefs where parrotfish, blue and yellow grunts, angelfish, four-eyed butterfly fish and other colorful specimens make their home. Picnic tables and public restrooms are available in Church Bay Park. West Whale Bay is so named for the whales that migrate through these waters in April. Sometimes the enormous mammals can be spotted offshore to the south. Through a grassy field with picnic tables and facilities lies a small beach at the bottom of a rocky cliff. At low tide, the waters here are very shallow, which makes West Whale Bay a favorite among families with small children.

Horseshoe Bay is Bermuda's most popular beach with photographers, visitors and residents alike and for good reason: it is the quintessential fine, pink-sand beach, a stunning spot thanks to its long horseshoe shape enclosed on either side by limestone cliffs. Since the waters can be somewhat rough, swimming here is best left to those with experience. Reefs for snorkeling can be found along the rocks on the western side, and extensive facilities, including a snack bar and equipment rental, are available. If the crowds are too much, you can try for more seclusion at Peel Bay, a smaller beach adjacent to Horseshoe Bay.

Warwick Parish
In nearby Warwick Parish are Chaplin Bay and Stonehole Bay, two equally tranquil beaches that boast awesome limestone rock formations against which the sea makes an impressive attack. The two beaches are connected via a trail and swimming is considered safe at both locations, although swimmers should beware on days when the seas are rough. Public facilities are available at Stonehole Bay.

An expansive stretch of pink sand, Warwick Long Bay offers the distinct advantage of less crowding thanks to its size. A lovely setting, it also features cliff trails, cedar and grape trees and ample bird-watching opportunities. Swimming here is not advised for small children, but the playground in the park should provide plenty of diversions for the little ones. Public restrooms are also available in the park and there is a visiting lunch wagon across South Road.Adjacent Jobson's Cove, on the other hand, is a good place for youngsters to swim. The waters lapping much of this small, sheltered cove are shallow and calm, and the sandy bottom makes it easy to distinguish parrotfish and sergeant majors even without snorkeling gear. To the east of Warwick Long Bay is Astwood Cove. The park here offers open fields for picnics, plus thickets and cliffs that make for great nature walks. The cove itself is rocky and features good snorkeling opportunities, but it's not the best destination for inexperienced swimmers.

Paget Parish
Paget Parish's claim to beach fame is Elbow Beach, the eastern portion of
which is privately owned by the Elbow Beach Bermuda Hotel. The public
section of the beach is quite large.

Devonshire Parish
In Devonshire Parish is Devonshire Bay, a small, sheltered beach with tranquil waters-perfect for families with small children. Public restrooms are available.

Pembroke Parish
Within Admiralty House Park, along Spanish Point Road, is Clarence Cove, found at the bottom of a park trail that descends a hillside. Comprised of two perfect little beaches, the cove is actually more like a lagoon and swimming here is safe for all ages. During July and August, this is the locale of daytime camps for children, but the beaches remain relatively secluded throughout the rest of the year.

Hamilton Parish
Shelly Bay Beach is perhaps one of Bermuda's most family-friendly spots. Found on the western side of Harrington Sound, this North Shore beach is named after Henry Shelly, an early colonist. Calm, shallow waters, public facilities, beach- and sports-equipment rentals, plus a snack bar and a park playground will keep the family occupied for the entire day. A tidal pond nearby is enclosed in mangroves and thickets and makes for great bird watching.

Smith's Parish
John Smith's Bay in Smith's Parish is a favorite with locals and with photographers, who relish shots of its gloriously pink sands. There are shallow waters where children can amuse themselves, but swimmers and snorkelers who head farther out will be rewarded with a display of numerous colorful fish and coral reefs. Riptides are sometimes a concern here, and a lifeguard is on duty during the summer. Limited public facilities are available.

St. George's Parish
Clearwater Beach, in St. George's Parish, became accessible to the public when the United States returned the military base lands to Bermuda in 1995. The two sandy beaches here are now part of Clearwater Beach Park, which overlooks the Cooper's Island Nature Reserve; the beaches were actually man-made for use by army personnel. Its ample facilities and expansive size make Clearwater popular with families, and for parties and other functions. You may notice dark patches in the water here they indicate bunches of turtle grass, a sea grass that attracts fish and green turtles. Adjacent Turtle Bay also offers good snorkeling.

Another of St. George's beaches is Tobacco Bay, which boasts tranquil waves, public facilities, beach-chair and sporting-equipment rentals and a snack
bar. Offshore, the rocks surrounding the bay are home to snapping turtles,
parrotfish, four-eyed butterfly fish, blue angels and more.

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